In Praise of Lard

Written By: Jeffrey A. Tucker  |  Posted: Tuesday, July 20th, 2010

The use of lard in cooking is slowly being rehabilitated but the cultural shock of the stuff hasn't diminished in the slightest. There I was at the store buying just two products: lard and salt. They sat on the black conveyor belt awaiting checkout at the store. The guy behind me - something like this happens every time I buy lard - asked incredulously: "what are you going to make with that?"

So my routine lecture began. I use lard for making biscuits. Sometimes I fry those lard biscuits in lard, and these I call "hot puffs" and eat them with honey. Lard is essential for pie crusts. It makes great chocolate chip cookies. I can't imagine frying potatoes in anything else. It is excellent for chicken. Pancakes and waffles are never better than when made with lard. Popcorn not fried in lard (air pop? please!) is noticeably inferior. Cakes are wonderful with lard. The refried beans you eat are not authentic if they do not include lard. All that amounts to nearly a bucket per week of lard use. I admit it.

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